I have my first midterm before my second class even starts. Yeah, cool. My Latin American lit professor is going to the States next week so she's giving us an "early midterm" a week from today. My Sorbonne classes start the Monday after that. She says it doesn't count much, and it's basically just a short essay, but still kind of annoying.
In other news, I finally found the entrance to the Val de Grace church..and then discovered you can't visit it. It took so long! It's in the middle of huge hospital grounds and I had no idea how to get in. Turns out you can't, but I did find where I could get in if I had a card, or something.
I walked home from the church, going a back way I've only gone once. I'm not that familiar with the route, but it goes down Rue de la Santé, which is the road that prison is on (see previous entry). So I was walking along, trying to ignore the ridiculous winds blowing in my face, when I start to pass by a building with a high stone wall. I figured it was the prison. Then I saw that a gate I was about to pass was wide open, and the sign said "a la Maison de la Sante", which again led me to believe it was the prison. I was surprised they'd leave the gate open, but it seemed to be a drop-off or pick-up point. Whatever. I kept walking, and a little while later a door in the wall was just completely open! You could see the courtyard inside, and this was clearly connected to the buildings attached to the wall. I actually stopped and stared for a second or two before getting a little uneasy and rushing off...and then while rushing off I noticed another sign said "Maison des Sœurs Augustines de la Santé" - it was a convent. These French need to stop naming everything in one area the same thing!
Also on that walk I followed a kid who was walking backwards, presumably so he had his back to the wind. It was possibly not the best strategy for a city street, but worked for him. He had a Harry Potter backpack, and looked like a very young Harry Potter - glasses and all. No scar, though.
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
assassins!
Before I forget - I live about a minute from one of France's most famous prisons!
Thanks to the fabulous David I have been able to gather some info on the strange building that I thought was currently a hospital but turns out to be an active prison. It is called La Santé Prison or Prison de la Santé, which is rather deceiving as it means the prison of health. There is a plaque on one of the long, high walls saying that during the Occupation, a bunch of French Resistance soldiers were executed there after they attempted an insurrection. The last executions in French history in fact took place there - it might still even have a guillotine! So I knew it was a prison, but for some reason thought it was now a hospital.
Nope. Turns out it has been the lovely home to some of France's favorite criminals for about 130 years. Apollinaire is one of the most illustrious former guests. Since Apollinaire's time, however, conditions (and types of prisoners) have changed; it once held mostly political prisoners, like writers who protested the state, but now holds people like the banker who is about to go in for billions of euros of fraud. I wouldn't be surprised if he gets sent here. The assassin known as Carlos the Jackal was here for a while, although he's been moved. Another interesting inmate is a guy who vandalized a McDonald's.
Sadly, though, the conditions have gone downhill. Or stayed the same, depending on how you look at it. Recent accusations say it is unsanitary, unsafe, and turns the inmates crazy. It has the highest suicide rate of any French prison, and many inmates are "deranged", even though most of the criminals who come in here are there for things like money laundering, etc - not crimes one generally associates with potential crazies, just really greedy and/or stupid people. A former doctor of the prison came out with a book about the conditions; many French people were completely shocked by it, thinking French prisons had some of the best standards in the world.
Now don't go getting worried, people. This is an extremely secure place, surrounded entirely by stone walls so you can't even see in. There are some dorm-style taller buildings in which one can kind of see lights and windows at night, but other than that it's a total mystery to me. Directly across the street are commercial and residential buildings (not to mention an elementary school) so I assume the people of Paris are okay with having the prison there. I am one block away, and I walk along its outside wall every other day or so. I'll save the stories of hearing strange noises coming from it when I was walking home the other night for another day...or those who ask for it.
Here is a link to the Wikipedia page on the building: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=La_Sant%C3%A9_Prison&oldid=166990905
And one to a NY Times article on the doctor's book: Expose of Brutal Prison Jolts France's Self-Image
Thanks to the fabulous David I have been able to gather some info on the strange building that I thought was currently a hospital but turns out to be an active prison. It is called La Santé Prison or Prison de la Santé, which is rather deceiving as it means the prison of health. There is a plaque on one of the long, high walls saying that during the Occupation, a bunch of French Resistance soldiers were executed there after they attempted an insurrection. The last executions in French history in fact took place there - it might still even have a guillotine! So I knew it was a prison, but for some reason thought it was now a hospital.
Nope. Turns out it has been the lovely home to some of France's favorite criminals for about 130 years. Apollinaire is one of the most illustrious former guests. Since Apollinaire's time, however, conditions (and types of prisoners) have changed; it once held mostly political prisoners, like writers who protested the state, but now holds people like the banker who is about to go in for billions of euros of fraud. I wouldn't be surprised if he gets sent here. The assassin known as Carlos the Jackal was here for a while, although he's been moved. Another interesting inmate is a guy who vandalized a McDonald's.
Sadly, though, the conditions have gone downhill. Or stayed the same, depending on how you look at it. Recent accusations say it is unsanitary, unsafe, and turns the inmates crazy. It has the highest suicide rate of any French prison, and many inmates are "deranged", even though most of the criminals who come in here are there for things like money laundering, etc - not crimes one generally associates with potential crazies, just really greedy and/or stupid people. A former doctor of the prison came out with a book about the conditions; many French people were completely shocked by it, thinking French prisons had some of the best standards in the world.
Now don't go getting worried, people. This is an extremely secure place, surrounded entirely by stone walls so you can't even see in. There are some dorm-style taller buildings in which one can kind of see lights and windows at night, but other than that it's a total mystery to me. Directly across the street are commercial and residential buildings (not to mention an elementary school) so I assume the people of Paris are okay with having the prison there. I am one block away, and I walk along its outside wall every other day or so. I'll save the stories of hearing strange noises coming from it when I was walking home the other night for another day...or those who ask for it.
Here is a link to the Wikipedia page on the building: http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=La_Sant%C3%A9_Prison&oldid=166990905
And one to a NY Times article on the doctor's book: Expose of Brutal Prison Jolts France's Self-Image
why is the harp store not on Rue de la Harpe?!
On Friday I went to the Budin harp shop off the Champs-Elysees because they specialize in antique harps and I need string advice for my antique. Also my mom has been in contact with them for a while, so I knew they'd be able to help me.
As I have mentioned before, the Champs-Elysees and surrounding areas are the center of Paris' Fashion Week, with all kinds of people wandering the streets, including many photographers. As I was walking, apparently one thought I was somehow involved in/interested in/otherwise concerned with Fashion Week and stopped me to ask if he could take my picture for a Paris fashion blog. I was a little bewildered but I agreed. Then he figured out I was American and became even more convinced I must be there to check it out. He explained it was just a little blog and not professional but of course was covering Fashion Week. They wanted to show some of the fashions of people on the street.
Now, dear readers, I am not overly fashionable, but in Paris I try a bit harder than say, in Ithaca. But it was cold outside and mostly all anyone could see was by black peacoat. I suspect my hair being pulled back into a nice bun deceived the photog. Anyway, I unbuttoned the coat and struck a (rather awkward, I felt) pose in my black sweater, grey silk wrap skirt, tights and black boots. I was wearing a nifty hand-made necklace but I doubt that's what got their attention.
They were all intermittently flashing pictures of people who were walking around, so it wasn't all that odd, I was just rather surprised. So if anyone out there frequents Paris fashion blogs and finds me on one...let me know.
As I have mentioned before, the Champs-Elysees and surrounding areas are the center of Paris' Fashion Week, with all kinds of people wandering the streets, including many photographers. As I was walking, apparently one thought I was somehow involved in/interested in/otherwise concerned with Fashion Week and stopped me to ask if he could take my picture for a Paris fashion blog. I was a little bewildered but I agreed. Then he figured out I was American and became even more convinced I must be there to check it out. He explained it was just a little blog and not professional but of course was covering Fashion Week. They wanted to show some of the fashions of people on the street.
Now, dear readers, I am not overly fashionable, but in Paris I try a bit harder than say, in Ithaca. But it was cold outside and mostly all anyone could see was by black peacoat. I suspect my hair being pulled back into a nice bun deceived the photog. Anyway, I unbuttoned the coat and struck a (rather awkward, I felt) pose in my black sweater, grey silk wrap skirt, tights and black boots. I was wearing a nifty hand-made necklace but I doubt that's what got their attention.
They were all intermittently flashing pictures of people who were walking around, so it wasn't all that odd, I was just rather surprised. So if anyone out there frequents Paris fashion blogs and finds me on one...let me know.
Monday, January 28, 2008
dining etiquette
Meals and mealtimes in general are a far bigger deal in France than in the States. Most people know this and of course I was aware when I came, but I was nervous about eating occasional meals with my host family. What if I did something terribly rude without realizing it? So far I have not done anything egregious. Anyway, here are some mealtime differences (at least how we eat in this apartment, I can't promise it's always this way):
- It is perfectly acceptable to dirty the tablecloth because it's going to be shaken out the window after the meal anyway. Most of the time the bread is cut over the tablecloth, and one keeps their piece of bread next to the plate, not on it.
- Hands above table height at all times..don't put your hands in your lap.
- All cheeses have specific ways of being cut. Don't mix them up!
- Don't bring a bottle of wine to a meal if it's at someone else's house; they are cooking, so they know what wine will go with the meal.
- Specify if you don't want wine, because otherwise it will automatically be given to you.
- For first rounds, someone serves the dishes. Only after that do you serve yourself.
They always give me a napkin (cloth of course) that goes in this little cloth bag with a drawstring. I'm not sure why it needs a holder or why I'm the only one who gets one, but it confused me a little bit the first few times. So the second time I saw this mysterious little bag, I asked Aurelien what it was for, hoping I didn't sound too stupid. I was really worried I should know this. But he stared at it for a moment and said, "I have no idea. I've never seen it before."
I've been less worried about things since then.
Today I had dinner with Alain, Catherine, and Catherine's parents, who are probably in their early 70's. They're pretty cool, and didn't speak English the whole time - I'm not sure if they can. I was really excited, though, because Catherine's father speaks sort of slowly and enunciates very well, so I could understand nearly everything he said! I was quite proud of myself.
They discussed the upcoming birth of their first great-grandchild, who will be Catherine's great-nephew. There was the usual talk of oh, they feel old now, etc. But they had also just learned that the baby would be named Nathaniel and talked about the pros and cons of that name. I mentioned that Nathaniel is my nephew's middle name and they were quite pleasantly surprised, as if look! All those silly Americans aren't heathens after all! I told the great-grandma to be his whole name and she was more impressed, and decided she might try to talk her grandson into considering my nephew's first name (in French, of course). I think I was approved.
- It is perfectly acceptable to dirty the tablecloth because it's going to be shaken out the window after the meal anyway. Most of the time the bread is cut over the tablecloth, and one keeps their piece of bread next to the plate, not on it.
- Hands above table height at all times..don't put your hands in your lap.
- All cheeses have specific ways of being cut. Don't mix them up!
- Don't bring a bottle of wine to a meal if it's at someone else's house; they are cooking, so they know what wine will go with the meal.
- Specify if you don't want wine, because otherwise it will automatically be given to you.
- For first rounds, someone serves the dishes. Only after that do you serve yourself.
They always give me a napkin (cloth of course) that goes in this little cloth bag with a drawstring. I'm not sure why it needs a holder or why I'm the only one who gets one, but it confused me a little bit the first few times. So the second time I saw this mysterious little bag, I asked Aurelien what it was for, hoping I didn't sound too stupid. I was really worried I should know this. But he stared at it for a moment and said, "I have no idea. I've never seen it before."
I've been less worried about things since then.
Today I had dinner with Alain, Catherine, and Catherine's parents, who are probably in their early 70's. They're pretty cool, and didn't speak English the whole time - I'm not sure if they can. I was really excited, though, because Catherine's father speaks sort of slowly and enunciates very well, so I could understand nearly everything he said! I was quite proud of myself.
They discussed the upcoming birth of their first great-grandchild, who will be Catherine's great-nephew. There was the usual talk of oh, they feel old now, etc. But they had also just learned that the baby would be named Nathaniel and talked about the pros and cons of that name. I mentioned that Nathaniel is my nephew's middle name and they were quite pleasantly surprised, as if look! All those silly Americans aren't heathens after all! I told the great-grandma to be his whole name and she was more impressed, and decided she might try to talk her grandson into considering my nephew's first name (in French, of course). I think I was approved.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
the National Guard will be harder to catch
Everyone in the program is at different levels in their French study: only 2 people are somewhat close to fluent, and several have not had any French at all. We are all taking French classes at the Sorbonne, but obviously will be in different levels. So, yesterday we took a placement test there, which turned out to be harder than I expected. It wasn't that difficult, but I assumed it would start with easy stuff and get harder...but no, it started out with those little annoying grammar rules everyone hates. Quel, or lequel? Where should the indirect object go in this sentence? Meh.
There was also a section of really open-ended complete-the-sentence type things like, "These films are distinguishable by their..." or "Give him/her something that...." Kind of annoying, but it was short and I did well on the speaking part. With any luck, I won't get the 8am session.
After the test a bunch of us went to the Louvre, my first visit since I've been here this time. The group I was with wandered around the objects d'art area, where they keep personal (well, if you're royalty or something) smaller collection pieces. There are a lot of things like jewelry boxes, crucifixes, medallions, tapestries, furniture, decorations. I really like that part of the museum.
Anyway, I'm about to go search for some English bookstores to get some stuff for my independent study. I'll probably be in the Latin Quarter all day, which is fine by me! I found an awesome crepe place there the other day - it sells Moroccan and Libiyan inspired crepes that are yummy and pretty cheap. Tomorrow I actually have to do homework!
There was also a section of really open-ended complete-the-sentence type things like, "These films are distinguishable by their..." or "Give him/her something that...." Kind of annoying, but it was short and I did well on the speaking part. With any luck, I won't get the 8am session.
After the test a bunch of us went to the Louvre, my first visit since I've been here this time. The group I was with wandered around the objects d'art area, where they keep personal (well, if you're royalty or something) smaller collection pieces. There are a lot of things like jewelry boxes, crucifixes, medallions, tapestries, furniture, decorations. I really like that part of the museum.
Anyway, I'm about to go search for some English bookstores to get some stuff for my independent study. I'll probably be in the Latin Quarter all day, which is fine by me! I found an awesome crepe place there the other day - it sells Moroccan and Libiyan inspired crepes that are yummy and pretty cheap. Tomorrow I actually have to do homework!
Thursday, January 24, 2008
first class
My first class was today, and it was really good. The professor seems very knowledgeable, to the point, and willing to discuss. We’re doing all kinds of cool readings and she has a ton of background and insight.
Also – she was bff with Borges!! And is still bff with his widow!! That is just about the most awesome thing ever. (But I was thinking – she’s probably in her late 50’s, and if Borges were alive he’d be 108. His widow was younger, but she must be at least 80’s. She said she was a grad student with him, or something.) I just wish I still had a good grasp on Spanish so I could supplement this class with the original works. Alas, French seems to have pushed it all out of my head…
comments
I just enabled anonymous commenting, I think, so if you want to comment sans identity or if you don't have an account or whatever, now I think you can do so :)
PS - I like comments.
PS - I like comments.
the continuing adventures of angie the jew
I am often mistaken for being Jewish. I'm not sure why, but I think it's generally because I know things about Judaism; not that I'm an expert or anything, but between being interested in the history of religions in general and growing up on Long Island...well, you get to know things, especially very basic things. So a lot of people at school tend to think because I'm aware of that kind of thing I must be Jewish. It's strange, but in an entertaining sort of way.
So continuing this weird trend: I had a conversation with a girl (who is Jewish) in the program the other day, prompted by my mentioning I wanted to try out the kosher pizza place in the Marais because it looked really good. It went something like this:
Her: So, do you keep kosher?
Me: Uh, well, I'm not actually Jewish. So, no.
Her: Oh, wow, really? Because you look really Jewish, and I don't normally say that to people!
Okay, mes amis, you can decide for yourself whether I look Jewish or not. But! The best part? While we were talking I was eating a ham pizza.
Yesterday I went to the Museum of Jewish Art and History - they had a really interesting exhibit on Superman and other comics. I went into the museum part, too, because I figured, why not? I was already there and it seemed interesting.
So while I was walking around there was an older American guy there who noticed that I was reading both the French and English signs. He asked me if I knew English, and I replied, yes, I am American. He seemed pleased that I was showing such interest in the exhibits and occasionally commented to me about the prettiness of something or asked me to translate. He was nice. When I left for the comic exhibit he said I "seemed like a nice Jewish girl." I just smiled at him and said goodbye.
So continuing this weird trend: I had a conversation with a girl (who is Jewish) in the program the other day, prompted by my mentioning I wanted to try out the kosher pizza place in the Marais because it looked really good. It went something like this:
Her: So, do you keep kosher?
Me: Uh, well, I'm not actually Jewish. So, no.
Her: Oh, wow, really? Because you look really Jewish, and I don't normally say that to people!
Okay, mes amis, you can decide for yourself whether I look Jewish or not. But! The best part? While we were talking I was eating a ham pizza.
Yesterday I went to the Museum of Jewish Art and History - they had a really interesting exhibit on Superman and other comics. I went into the museum part, too, because I figured, why not? I was already there and it seemed interesting.
So while I was walking around there was an older American guy there who noticed that I was reading both the French and English signs. He asked me if I knew English, and I replied, yes, I am American. He seemed pleased that I was showing such interest in the exhibits and occasionally commented to me about the prettiness of something or asked me to translate. He was nice. When I left for the comic exhibit he said I "seemed like a nice Jewish girl." I just smiled at him and said goodbye.
tuesday, i think
I'm a little behind again, sorry.
So for some mysterious, bureaucratic reason I wound up getting my 2nd choice for electives at AUP. That wouldn't have been a terrible thing if that class weren't at 5:00 on Fridays. (Did I already say this? I feel like I did.) Monday and Tuesday I tried to do an add/drop thing to get into my first choice, which is more interesting and at a better time. The times I got for Monday turned out to be wrong, but I found a really good boulangerie near the school, so, yay! I also randomly ran into another girl from the program who was trying to add/drop but got the wrong times. We sat on the steps outside some St. Pierre's church and discussed our weekends. She apparently is also discontent with most of the people in the program, so likes to wander around by herself, as I do.
There were two concerts I wanted to attend on Tuesday, but one happened while I was again waiting for add/drop (this time with success!) and the other was sold out. I saw that it was at the Théâtre Champs-Elysées but for some reason it didn't click in my mind that this was kind of a big deal concert. So I went there in the afternoon to get tickets, but there weren't any.
The Champs-Elysées area is, as most probably know, a rather upscale part of Paris. The theater itself is on Rue Montaigne, which is a little away from the more touristy Avenue Champs-Elysées, and there are signs proclaiming that street Paris' Madison Avenue. Which it totally is. There were major designer stores everywhere and very fashionable people carrying tiny little dogs. Also, it is Fashion Week in Paris! Meaning all kinds of fashion/non-fashion/celebrity types are here, and most are hanging around this part of town.
The theater is surrounded by upscale hotels, and many of these people must be staying in them for the week; I saw more limos and bored chauffeurs than I've ever seen in my life. There were also quite a lot of paparazzo hanging around, and while I was walking back to the Metro they were all excited about someone exiting a hotel. I couldn't see who it was.
Later I was in the Marais checking out some cafes when I came out of one near the St. Paul Metro stop to find a film crew and lots of Parisians milling around. They looked rather excited, for Parisians, so I assume it must've been some French movie star filming or something.
So for some mysterious, bureaucratic reason I wound up getting my 2nd choice for electives at AUP. That wouldn't have been a terrible thing if that class weren't at 5:00 on Fridays. (Did I already say this? I feel like I did.) Monday and Tuesday I tried to do an add/drop thing to get into my first choice, which is more interesting and at a better time. The times I got for Monday turned out to be wrong, but I found a really good boulangerie near the school, so, yay! I also randomly ran into another girl from the program who was trying to add/drop but got the wrong times. We sat on the steps outside some St. Pierre's church and discussed our weekends. She apparently is also discontent with most of the people in the program, so likes to wander around by herself, as I do.
There were two concerts I wanted to attend on Tuesday, but one happened while I was again waiting for add/drop (this time with success!) and the other was sold out. I saw that it was at the Théâtre Champs-Elysées but for some reason it didn't click in my mind that this was kind of a big deal concert. So I went there in the afternoon to get tickets, but there weren't any.
The Champs-Elysées area is, as most probably know, a rather upscale part of Paris. The theater itself is on Rue Montaigne, which is a little away from the more touristy Avenue Champs-Elysées, and there are signs proclaiming that street Paris' Madison Avenue. Which it totally is. There were major designer stores everywhere and very fashionable people carrying tiny little dogs. Also, it is Fashion Week in Paris! Meaning all kinds of fashion/non-fashion/celebrity types are here, and most are hanging around this part of town.
The theater is surrounded by upscale hotels, and many of these people must be staying in them for the week; I saw more limos and bored chauffeurs than I've ever seen in my life. There were also quite a lot of paparazzo hanging around, and while I was walking back to the Metro they were all excited about someone exiting a hotel. I couldn't see who it was.
Later I was in the Marais checking out some cafes when I came out of one near the St. Paul Metro stop to find a film crew and lots of Parisians milling around. They looked rather excited, for Parisians, so I assume it must've been some French movie star filming or something.
Monday, January 21, 2008
the eiffel tower has 1665 steps
Never say the French didn’t stand up to Hitler: when he was in
yay for open air markets and goat cheese!
I went to a street market this morning with Catherine and Holly-the-director, and it was a lot of fun. They have it every Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday, and I guess Catherine gets all her food for the week there, except bread and milk and such. There were all kinds of merchants there: a ton of different food vendors (bread, cheese, fruit, vegetables, pastries, meat, fish…everything), some clothes, jewelry, newspapers, and lots of other stuff. I didn’t get anything, but followed Holly around as she explained everything to be. A lot of food vendors also sell homemade meals, some of which we got to sample. They were really good. I plan to get most of my food there in the future.
There are also lots of groups that hang around the market, especially political groups. I signed a petition for one of them, who turned out to be Holly’s friend. The French people had voted against a recent E.U. thing but Sarkozy is now trying to ignore that vote and make
Speaking of revolutions…most people know of my deep affection for uprisings, and also that the French tend to do that a lot. This is part of the reason I love the French. Anyway, just as an example of how present the revolutionary mindset is here: last night I had dinner with the family and for dessert we had a gateaux de rois, which is a yummy little almond cake that has a figurine cooked into it. Whoever gets the figurine in their piece gets to be the “king”. So last night Aurélien got the figurine and immediately after he was crowned with the paper crown Alain goes, “Faisons une revolution!” [Let’s have a revolution!] Then when I was declared queen there was another uprising. Not fair, as we were just rulers.
Anyway, Aurélien is apparently sick. I didn’t notice last night but his mother says he is not eating or sleeping well and is too tired. I suspect this might be because he just had a week of exams, but perhaps he is sick. So Catherine’s approach to making him get better? Feed him horse meat! She bought a big chunk of it while we were at the market. I was really confused at first when I saw that stall, as all the meat looked as if it were taken from the animal about a minute ago – it was all very, very red but didn’t seem bloody. Then Holly told me many more old-fashioned French believe horse meat is the best source of nutrients, especially iron, and many make sick people eat it. I’m supposed to try it someday, but that might be the only thing I’m squeamish about…I don’t really want to eat horse.
And finally, my dilemma: I’m trying to decide what concert to go to next Saturday and Sunday nights and am flummoxed. For Saturday, there is a “Musique Anglaise” [English music] night at the Basilique Ste. Clothilde featuring Renaissance English vocal chamber music; a soprano, cello, and piano set of Mozart, Schubert, Poulenc, Bach, Satie, etc at the Temple du Luxembourg; and a heroines of opera night at the Vissi d’Arte. The one at the
For Sunday, Ste. Clothilde is having the same concert, but there is also a soprano trio performing Schumann, Debussy, Ravel, Britten, Sondheim, Stravinsky and others at the American church. It’s free. Comment faire?? Thoughts, anyone?
Sunday, January 20, 2008
last one today, I swear
All right, I've done a mind-boggling 6 entries tonight. I had them mostly written out before, don't worry. But I realized I made a glaring error a while back.
When I told you my living arrangements had changed I said I now live in the 7eme. I don't know why I said that. I in no way, shape, or form, live in the 7eme; I'm still in the 13eme. I'm right on the border of the 13eme and 5eme, for those of you Google earthing at home. Find the large structure that looks like a prison, but is actually some sort of hospital thing. I am about a 2 minute walk from that.
When I told you my living arrangements had changed I said I now live in the 7eme. I don't know why I said that. I in no way, shape, or form, live in the 7eme; I'm still in the 13eme. I'm right on the border of the 13eme and 5eme, for those of you Google earthing at home. Find the large structure that looks like a prison, but is actually some sort of hospital thing. I am about a 2 minute walk from that.
9 saints, but only about 1% of Paris' saint population
What have I been doing day-to-day recently? Not much very exciting to all of you out there: mostly shopping and visiting cathedrals. The French government imposes a period of sales on French clothing stores in the beginning of the year (imagine the
There are two lovely cathedrals I’ve visited in the same area, one of which I saw today, St. Gervais de-somethingorother. It was huge, very open and airy, with a very strange mixture of styles; it seems like much of it was destroyed in WWI, so there are some sections that are very modern while much of it is neo-Gothic. It is definitely a practicing place of worship, and must have some sort of convent attached. I saw at least four nuns getting ready for the next service. And to those who don’t know – I LOVE nuns!
I also went to St. Etienne-du-Mont today, which is right next to the Panthéon. It is also really large, but more well-known. It has a very famous altar screen, which is an intricate passage of screened stairs leading up a couple of stories to a raised altar. The stairs wind from the middle of the sanctuary upwards. It also houses the remains of Ste. Geneviève, patroness of
St. Severin in the
One of these, I don't quite remember which, has a cabinet full of saint bones. I didn't know what they were - they looked like old rolled up parchment - but I stopped looking when I realized one was Ste. Ursula's femur.
I haven’t been doing the nightlife thing too much as I want to get a good feel for the city before I wander around it at night. Classes at the AUP start Monday, but mine might not until Tuesday. I found out my scheduled class is on Fridays until about 6:30 (bleh!) so I want to switch out. We’ll see how that goes. (By the way, when I get a camera I’ll post pics of the cathedrals, etc.)
host family
The couple I live with are very nice, helpful, and laissez-faire. They are Catherine and Alain, both physics professors, though I’m not sure if he actually teaches or just does research. Their apartment is small but comfortable, and I adore their cat.
You will get a good picture of Catherine if you imagine a laid-back, female, French physicist. She is unprepossessing but not meek, thin with dull brown hair, always taking off and putting on her thick-framed black glasses, and usually has a distracted air. I see her in the mornings before I leave and usually in the evenings; she always has a smile and is willing to help me with whatever I need. I think she likes to cook and tends to do so in her own sort of thrown-together, earthy fashion, but I haven’t had much of her food yet. She is also the president of the building’s committee, though one would hardly think it of her. I was surprised to learn she (and another resident who happens to be our program director) actually campaigned for the position. From the snippets of French I’ve heard about this situation there has been some drama going on with the committee and everyone is glad Catherine has taken over.
Alain is what I can only describe as a jolly nerd. He is really funny, and I’m sure would be more so if I understood more French, and he has a distinctly nerdy sense of humor. For example, he was making jokes about Victor Hugo’s private life at dinner tonight in its historical context. He likes opera, which I appreciate, and plays it when relaxing at night sometimes. He is average size, with grey physics professor hair and pointy glasses. While Catherine is okay at English, if I am really having trouble understanding or expressing something I go to Alain because he is very good, even if he doesn’t use it much.
Catherine has a son, Aurélien, whose room I now occupy. He has his own apartment, and since he moved out Catherine has been taking on study abroad students. I met him tonight, and have officially decided I have a giant crush on him. He is about my age, though Catherine says he’s a little older, quite good-looking with the same gorgeous blue eyes as his cat (weird). It is Aurélien to whom all thanks (or well-aimed kicks at the shin, as the case might be) should go for today’s entries, because he fixed my wireless. We spent a while fiddling with the settings on my computer before he said, “I theenk I just have to poosh ze booton on ze…what do you call eet…modem.” And then it was fixed.
He also lives in the 13eme, but closer to the
So, Aurélien is pretty cool and it would be nice if he continued to come around. I want to get into some French music and I think he’d be helpful with that.
Albé (or Albais, Albet, I don’t know) is Aurélien’s cat. She was a birthday present and is particularly attached to him; she was very sad when he moved out. So now she hangs out in his old room and adopts whoever is staying there. I like her a lot as she is an amusing mixture of friendly – she’ll follow you around asking to be pet if no one has been home for several hours, and will install herself on my bed with the intention of getting attention – and stand-offish – she will get mad after a while of mewling at you and hide. I think she’s a ragdoll, or a mix with some ragdoll in it. She’s really gorgeous, with crème and brown long, soft fur and blue, blue eyes.
So that’s my host family. I like them quite a bit; they’re kind and helpful and would be amusing if I could only understand what they’re saying.
thoughts regarding wine and cigarettes
I have perhaps caused a bit of confusion with a previous post: I mentioned that I had bought some wine and was, in fact, drinking it. I enjoy white wine, and it's useful for when you want to make your simple meal of bread, fruit, and cheese seem more Parisian. There is a lot of wine around Europe in general, and there is actually no legal drinking age in France. One might assume this makes for lots of drunken youths staggering around the streets but that is absolutely not the case; French kids are far less likely to overindulge because it's usually a part of a normal meal, or a sole drink while at a cafe or something. Anyway, I love that I can get a decent bottle of wine to bring to a get-together for about $3 - I guess it's a cultural difference, but it's not a huge one and I like it.
Smoking, on the other hand, is one of the more tiresome aspects of French culture. SO many people smoke here, and although it doesn't bother me that they do it, per se, it's just sort of annoying to always get smoke blown in my face while I'm walking down the street. Starting the beginning of this year, a new law was passed prohibiting smoking in public buildings. While I haven't heard much complaining (aside from a couple of AUP kids who dislike having to take their between-classes cigarette outside) it does force smokers into the streets a whole lot more. Now everywhere I go there are people standing outside their offices or whatever taking smoke breaks. I'm indifferent towards this, but I thought some might like to know how that law has been working out.
Smoking, on the other hand, is one of the more tiresome aspects of French culture. SO many people smoke here, and although it doesn't bother me that they do it, per se, it's just sort of annoying to always get smoke blown in my face while I'm walking down the street. Starting the beginning of this year, a new law was passed prohibiting smoking in public buildings. While I haven't heard much complaining (aside from a couple of AUP kids who dislike having to take their between-classes cigarette outside) it does force smokers into the streets a whole lot more. Now everywhere I go there are people standing outside their offices or whatever taking smoke breaks. I'm indifferent towards this, but I thought some might like to know how that law has been working out.
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