Thursday, October 25, 2012

Toulouse, the town hall and some history

The main area of Toulouse is in the center of the city, the square called the Capitole.  It's a large pedestrian place surrounded by 18th century buildings in that typical Toulouse pink/orange brick.


One side of the square is taken up by the Capitole building, which is currently the town hall along with the main theater of the city inside.


Coats of arms on the building:


The lady atop the pillars on the left here is the mythical Clemence Isaure, who supposedly founded Toulouse's medieval literary society, and who still is a part of the regional consciousness. 


Out the other side of the Capitole building is another, smaller square, which features a 15th century fortified keep.  This is a remnant of the days when Toulouse was a major military center between the warring kingdoms of France and Spain, with Toulouse's independent county in the middle.


This is the back of the Capitole building, it's rather pretty. 


And the other side of that square.


The Capitole, I guess because it's the town hall, is open and free to visitors most of the time.  After going through the main doors you enter into a pretty courtyard, again with that pink color.



Originally there was a building here in the late 12th century to house the administrative group that ran Toulouse, men called the capitouls.  For centuries before this group was established Toulouse was a key area in between France (then the Kingdom of the Franks) and Muslim Spain.  Sometimes it was nominally subject to France, but really it was completely independent, and often struggled between the two larger powers.  To make matters worse, Christian Europe often tried to fight with the much more advanced and efficient Arab empire on religious grounds, and used the county of Toulouse and neighboring Kingdom of Aquitaine as military bases.  Eventually Arab Spain fell, though, and then Toulouse had to struggle with keeping its independence from France.

The counts of Toulouse ruled much of modern southern France as kings, but when the ruling count went crusading in the late 11th century there was a local power struggle.  Eventually a new count was elected, but soon after eight men were also elected to represent the county of Toulouse's interests as well (a very early European pseudo-democracy).  As time went by these men grew in number and their influence diminished to only represent the city of Toulouse, but this spot was always where they met.  This building was created for them in the 18th century, long after the counts of Toulouse died out and the area was absorbed into France.

After the Revolution the rights of the capitouls were abolished and a regular mayor was appointed in 1790.  This building became the town hall, and it was improved with works of art throughout the 19th century.

Here is the entrance and grand staircase.




Much of the art in the building celebrates Toulouse's history, including this painting of a medieval troubadour.  Toulouse and the surrounding area have a long literary history, and troubadours, traveling poets and musicians, were common here.  They are considered to be some of the most important players in spreading culture in the early Renaissance.


The first room you get to is decorated with paintings by Toulousian artist Paul-Jean Gervais.  It was originally intended for upper-class weddings, as is apparent by the paintings depicting love allegories and its grandiosity.




The next room has works by more well-known Toulousian artist Henri Martin.  He chose to show scenes of Toulouse of his time, and the work "Les Reveurs" (second picture), showing prominent bourgeoisie of the time (including Jean Jaures, in the flat hat) is quite famous.



And the final room depicts the history of the city, and the capitouls, in painting and sculpture.  This room is also very grand, and is currently where town hall meetings are held.




This is a portrait of "La Belle Paule," the woman who is thought to be the real-life inspiration for Clemence Isaure (see above link).



This post was longer than expected, so I'll do the other museum next time!

No comments: