the greatest place ever

That would be Ravenna. The town itself isn't great, but whatever problems it has, it's worth it for the amazingness that is the history and art here. The Basilica San Vitale is one of the most incredible things I've ever seen in my life. If I didn't have to eat, sleep, etc, I would stay there forever. I can't even put into words how much I love it.

There are a bunch of other sites here, and most are also great; they're mostly churches so I won't bore with the details until I can get back and show pictures. Dante is also buried here, but I'll go to his tomb tomorrow.

Before I left Bologna I met an interesting Brazilian guy, and I told him about Ravenna. He's here to get his Italian citizenship, so mostly he's just hanging around without much to do. Anyway, he was really interested in the town - he likes Byzantine history and even knows about the Nika Revolt! - and he's coming here in a bit to see all the sites.

Last night I shared a room here with two French girls, cousins, who were traveling a bit in Italy. One is an archeology student so she was just as interested in everything as I was; it was cool. We all went to the sites together today, and we only spoke French! Their English is not very good and I figured it would be a good opportunity to practice everyday French with real people. I did pretty well, if I do say so myself: I even succeeded in explaining the implementation of the Nicene Creed! I'm quite pleased with myself.

Anyway, I am getting really tired after a bunch of days of walking around for hours upon hours, all the time. I think I'm going to sleep in tomorrow...maybe to 9am! Exciting. Tomorrow I'm going to one church, Dante's tomb and perhaps revisiting San Vitale, then I go to Ferrara. Everyone's been telling me there's little to see in Ferrara, but they don't understand how much of a nerd I am. I try to explain about the d'Este family, but most don't know them, which leads me to explain about Lucrezia Borgia (she married into the family) which then leads to Cesare Borgia and Machiavelli's "The Prince". At this point people are pleased at recognizing something I just said and tend to think Ferrara is what Machiavelli wrote about..which isn't the case. But then I am tired of explaining things and just say yes, that's why I'm going.