Sunday, February 24, 2008

fact: rouen is mind-bendingly awesome

I had a nice train ride to Rouen and got there around noon. Sadly, both of the cheaper places my guidebook suggested for eating were closed until Monday, so I had to take guesses. The town was smaller than I expected, but really pretty. This is a typical street, it's facing the St Ouen Abbey.

Another, in an older part of the town. You can see Gros Horloge (big clock) which is from the 16th century and still works. There was a lot of really good shopping around this area.


The first interesting monument I came across was the Tour Jeanne d'Arc, where she was held and threatened with torture. It's sort of just in the middle of a small business-type area.

I did not get to go in, but I hear each level has an exhibit on Jeanne or Rouen during her time. It was used by the Germans as a bunker during WWII.

Then I went to their amazing Musee des Beaux Arts, which has a great collection. Monet was particularly inspired by the cathedral in Rouen, so they have a few of his works (including my favorite Monet, Fete a Rue St Denis), and a many, many other awesome pieces. Pictures were allowed so I took a million.

Then I journeyed my way to the tourism office, the best-preserved Renaissance building in Rouen. There were no English tours of the cathedral so I got an audio guide for a walking tour of the whole town. It was very interesting but I was disappointed that it did not mention the Aitre St Maclou: today this is a nice little courtyard, but it was actually a mass dumping/burial ground during the plague. You have to go through a tiny passageway then come out to this:


There's nothing saying what this place was used for, but the buildings surrounding it came shortly after the plague and in their decoration bear the only acknowledgment of the aitre's purpose.


Rouen itself is a very friendly, fun town with tons of great shopping. It's cheaper than Paris, too, which was really nice. Nearly every section of the city has interesting and cool shops; I even found a couple of good vintage places. In my wanderings I also came across an amazing patisserie (you can always tell which are the best because they have long lines just before dinnertime) where I got an almond croissant. Yummy.

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